Dispensa 63 (Bellagio)
*Note: some restaurants in Bellagio (and Lake Como in general) are only open seasonally. Please make sure to check that the restaurant is actually open before going!
Some restaurants simply go above and beyond, and yet at the same time are the most simple and hidden of places. Dispensa 63 is a true gem tucked within the narrow alleyways of Bellagio, Lake Como.
Dispensa 63 is the brainchild of chef Francesco and Martina. Francesco- who often goes by “Baba”- is a Bellagio native and comes from a family background of hoteliers. In fact, this restaurant was recommended to us by his brother who works at the beautiful Hotel Bellagio. Chef Baba incorporates various styles from his training throughout Europe, bringing a unique fusion concept to guests at Dispensa 63. The name itself comes from the fact that the restaurant is located on the sixty-third step of the staircase leading up to it.
Martina, on the other hand, is the brains behind the restaurant’s unique decor and theme. Dispensa 63 is meant to feel like a modern kitchen that is connected with the guests. As such, diners sit right in front of Chef Baba as he cooks for each night’s group. With that being said, seats are very limited. We were given special reservations due to staying at the hotel and it being the restaurant’s season opening night, but some guests have noted that reservations of up to almost a month ahead of time are needed.
The interior is decorated like a beautiful mix between Italian, Greek, and Spanish styles and no detail is left unnoticed. Every piece of furniture is carefully curated to bring meaning and history from the founders' backgrounds or the surrounding region to tell the story of the restaurant. While some design aspects remind one of a cave (there is literally a sealed-off old well inside the bathroom that you can look down), others give the impression of post-modernist stone structures, providing an amusing atmosphere to contemplate while eating.
Watching the chef cook while chatting with friends is an intimate experience that we have not found elsewhere. Furthermore, the small space allows for only about ten diners per night, making it an even more intimate and emotional setting. The atmosphere is lighthearted, jovial, and contemplative without being pretentious or forced. It is perhaps the first time that nothing in specific is done to imbue such a unique presence, and yet it remains one of our most memorable experiences.
As the menu is ever-changing due to seasonal changes and Baba’s own innovation, some items may not be available later on. For example, while our table ordered several fish dishes, none of them are found on the online menu at the time of writing this article.
What still remains, however, is the beef steak (20 €, prices may vary over time). It is a rare-cooked steak with Roman-style chicory (a type of flower), anchovy-based mayonnaise, and various roasted vegetables. This is, by far, the best steak that we have ever tried and that cannot be emphasized enough. The preparation is relatively simple, but the meat is tender on an unreal level and quite literally dissolves in the mouth, leaving an impression of the steak right after putting it in your mouth. The sauce is so complex and unlike anything most readers will have tasted; it is slightly fishy and briny, but balanced with a deep umami that makes it inoffensive and amazing when paired with the steak. The vegetables are roasted carefully, having only the highest quality ones chosen for each guest. Lastly, the presentation is immaculate, simple, and yet tastefully elegant in every regard.
If you are interested in furthering the experience, Dispensa 63 also offers cooking classes from Chef Baba by special reservation only. These reservations take place during lunchtime only twice a week. While a maximum of eight people are allowed per opening, one-on-one classes can also be requested.
Even to this day, Dispensa 63 remains one of our all-time favorite restaurants. From the emotional setting to the elevated dining experience, not many restaurants can boast such high quality food while remaining true to simplicity and tradition. If you ever get the chance to go to Lake Como and can only try one restaurant, this would be our highest recommendation. It is a truly unique experience that you will only find in Bellagio, on the sixty-third step.
