Chukasoba Ginza Hachigou (銀座八五)
Introduction
One of the remarkable things about Tokyo is that excellent food does not always have to come at the cost of a kidney or a monthly mortgage payment. In fact, even Michelin rated or Michelin star restaurants can be had for the price of a normal meal.
In comes chef Yasushui Matsumura’s Chukasoba Ginza Hachigou, a 2023 recipient of the Michelin Guide’s prestigious 1-star rating. Trained in France, the legendary Matsumura-san brings decades of experience in opening this restaurant and provides diners the opportunity to try a truly exceptional ramen at around $8-10 USD (prices may vary over time).
The only catch? The lines.
Ticketing Process
Although the restaurant opens at 11 AM, customers usually start lining up far before that. My girlfriend and I arrived around 7:45 AM on a weekday morning and there was already a line. Only around seventy tickets are offered for the day, and my girlfriend and I were already numbers sixty-eight and sixty-nine in line. About two minutes later, the last person allowed for the day showed up and snagged his spot in line, closing the lines for the entire day at 8 AM. Customers that came even a few minutes after him were unfortunately turned away and told to come back another day.
The reason for this strict ticketing system is so that the chef is able to quality control every order. Matusmura-san certainly focuses on quality over quantity, and it is worth coming earlier than you think if you want to be safe and guarantee yourself a spot. Thankfully, one does not have to physically stand in line for hours once getting a ticket. After everyone has gotten their ticket and the restaurant staff (which is only two assistant chefs with Matsumura-san) is ready, diners go inside and put in their orders on a ticketing machine. Only cash is accepted here, so if you’re short on bills there is a Natural Lawson right across the street with an ATM for both domestic and foreign bank cards.
After placing our orders, we were instructed to come back around four hours later for the last time slot of the day. As the restaurant is located in Ginza- the glamorous shopping district of Tokyo- there is plenty to do during your wait. Whether it be trying on shoes at Onitsuka Tiger or browsing Uniqlo’s twelve-story flagship store, you will certainly have more than enough to do until your meal.
First Impressions
The inside of the restaurant is incredibly small and only seats six guests at a time. Stepping inside, it is also strangely quiet. Sure, you can hear people slurping away and spoons clanking on bowls but nobody is talking; it is a stark difference to more casual ramen spots. The speakers in the restaurant softly play angelic music and is complemented by the clean, white linen and modern wood interior that exudes elegance, subtlety, and distinction in the dining experience as soon as you enter.
If you are wearing a coat or have shopping bags, the wall behind you conveniently has hangers and a ledge to put your belongings so that they don’t interfere with your meal.
Although the restaurant has an air of elegance and the inimitable charm of a Michelin star level restaurant, it does not exhibit any hint of pompousness or exclusion; the focus is on the food and making it accessible to as many people as possible. We saw diners come in every sort of outfit, and not a care was given to anyone’s appearance. What is most important is appreciating your meal and being respectful to the diners around you. As such, while photos of your food are allowed, the restaurant kindly asks guests to not take pictures of the staff or other diners while they are eating so as not to disrupt their experience.
The Food
By recommendation of Matsumura-san's assistant chef, my girlfriend and I both got the soba noodles with ravioli. The staff knows exactly which bowl belongs to which customer without asking, and our bowls are placed in front of us only moments after being seated.
From the plating to the layout on the tray in front of you, everything is simple and understated, yet elegant and masterfully presented. It exudes the confidence of a chef who has demonstrated decades of excellence. As you take your first sip of the soup, Matsumura-san watches carefully but unobtrusively, ready to address any concerns, if there are any.
And the broth. I could write an entirely separate article on the broth alone. For the sake of brevity, I won’t keep it too long here. While most traditional Japanese ramens incorporate tare, a concentrated soy sauce-based seasoning that is diluted with the soup, Matsumura-san refrains from this practice. Due to his training in France, he instead uses techniques that do not require a tare base. The broth is made up of chicken and duck, as well as various vegetables and seafood (tomato is a surprising one). The broth can take over thirty hours to achieve perfection, and Matsumura-san himself oversees its preparation everyday.
To describe the broth, it is complex while being light, savory while being refreshing. The looks and consistency are similar to that of chicken noodle soup, with circles of oil glimmering on the surface. Even without any tare, Matsumura-san is somehow able to bring incredible depth and dimension to the soup. And even with the myriad of flavors all dancing together, you get the impression that it is simple and pure. Few foods make me physically smile after taking the first bite or sip, but this is one of them.
An interesting point to add is that Matsumura-san has developed his own soba noodles in order for them to soak up the soup exactly as he intends. When biting into the noodles, you will notice that they tend to be thin but have a firm consistency that gives the broth a physical body to accompany it. The soba noodles are springy, light, and thin, but with a taste that does not overpower the soup, instead allowing you to fully enjoy the complexity of the broth.
The soft boiled egg (ajitama) has a perfectly gooey interior. While I’ve tried many soft-boiled eggs, the quality in this one is superb, and when I say perfectly cooked, it is exactly that. Imagine in your mind’s eye the best egg that you could possibly fathom, and this is exactly what it’s like. In terms of the bamboo shoots (menma), they are thick and blocky, unlike in many other Japanese ramen shops. While I normally don’t like menma, I love these. They have a refreshing crunch when bitten into and explode with the broth that it’s been soaked in.
The chashu is also exceptional. Truly the best I’ve had. While a place like Kikanbo also has great chashu, Matsumura-san’s is just prepared on a different level. Rather than infusing a ton of seasonings and spices, it is light and wholesome, but still falls apart in your mouth. Matsumura-san seasons the chashu with Guérande salt from France, a technique that allows the deep flavor of the pork to come out naturally without further additives. It is pleasant and does not leave you feeling bloated afterwards.
At this point you might be asking what the heck the ravioli is. In my opinion, the ravioli alone makes this bowl of ramen and a four hour wait worth it. At first glance it looks like a normal soup dumpling, but the inside is the special part. The taste is legitimately something that I cannot explain here as it is beyond what I can compare it to. It is a mindblowing combination of meat, truffle, and spices that does not taste traditionally Japanese, but rather European. Matsumura-san perfectly blends Asian and European culinary techniques to formulate this exactly as intended for his soba noodles. Its flavor is unlike anything I’ve eaten before, and for this singular piece of ravioli alone I would visit Japan again.
Finishing Touches
Right as you’re about to finish the meal, the staff brings each customer a glass of cold-brewed hojicha, which is a Japanese roasted green tea. It is pure, simple, and delicious. It is undeniably some of the best hojicha that I’ve ever tried. There is nothing inherently special about it, other than its careful preparation and attention to ingredients. It is deeply earthy, woody, and crisp. It is as if you are stepping through a dewy forest with green tea and Hinoki cypress growing around you, and drinking the essence of that.
Final Remarks
No detail of Chukasoba Ginza Hachigou goes unnoticed. It is the manifestation of a master chef bringing his best to showcase to the world. Fun fact, even the name “Hachigou” means “85” as the restaurant measures 8.5 tsubo, a Japanese unit of measurement.
The service is exceptional, and yet non-invasive. The staff never says anything to you, but watches carefully to ensure that customers are fully satisfied with everything. The entire team works in quick and coordinated harmony, wasting no time or energy on anything.
The decor inside is modern but inviting. I still think about this meal and how well everything is executed, but so modest at the same time. It remains a testament to the idea that the most excellent of foods does not have to be gimmicky or expensive. Chukasoba Ginza Hachigou has nothing to prove, simply because they know that they are one of the best restaurants in all of Tokyo.
If you ever come to Tokyo- regardless of all the other restaurants in my reviews- I advise you to try your best to get a spot here. It is an experience unlike any other, and the perfection (as perfect as anything can be) and dedication to craftsmanship are unrivaled. While not hidden, it is a true gem and one that will remain a positive memory for years to come.
