Kikanbo (鬼金棒)
This one is special for me. Ever since high school, I’ve watched Mark Wiens’ video on Youtube about this place countless times. Karabishi Miso Ramen Kikanbo (yep that’s the full name) boasts the spiciest ramen in Tokyo, and was allegedly voted as one of Tokyo’s top fifty ramen restaurants a few years ago as well. As a lover of spicy food and pushing my limits with it, I was so intrigued. Ever since watching Mark’s video, I’ve been literally dreaming for years to be able to eat Kikanbo’s infamous “devil level ramen”.
Now, you might be wondering what the hell (pun-kinda-not-intended, but you’ll see why) devil level ramen is. It is Kikanbo’s spiciest ramen offering, maxing out on all spices offered. When you arrive at the restaurant, you’ll see a queue stretching out, even forming across the street from the restaurant. After ordering first from the automated ticket machine (cash-only) outside and lining up, the staff will meet you in line and take your paper ticket to prepare your order ahead of time (a genius idea that more American restaurants should honestly start doing).
As Kikanbo’s broth’s unique flavor comes from a combination of red sichuan peppers and black peppers, this is where the fun comes in. While normal-spice level ramen is sold and can be customized to any spice tolerance level, those going for an extra challenge choose to max out on all the spices provided on the machine, thus activating the devil level order.
One of the first few challenges of this restaurant however, is the wait. Even though we went at early lunchtime, we waited about forty-five minutes to get in, with some customers behind us waiting a bit longer. Once inside however, both the thematic and physical atmosphere are immediately made noticeable.
The restaurant’s theme is centered around these Japanese demon-goblins that carry large, spiked clubs. The demons are painted all over the restaurant and their masks and clubs are hung up around the shop. But this isn’t all. The inside is warm, humid, and smoky from all the chefs searing chashu pork and roasting vegetables with large flames for the customers. The smell of spices is captivating, and it almost reminds you of being at the top of a rollercoaster, about to descend into madness. To top it all off, the restaurant plays traditional Japanese drum music to really sell you on the frenzied vibe of eating ramen so spicy that a demon could eat it in hell (thus my previous pun). Truly, one of the best and most exciting restaurant interiors that I’ve ever been in. An A+ for this alone.
But you’re all here for the ramen, so I won’t waste any more time. My bowl came out scorching hot with the spices hitting my nose before the chef could even set it down. Only the devil level ramen comes in a black bowl, whereas normal ramen orders below the devil level are distinguished by white bowls. Immediately, what you notice is just how much spice is caked- and I mean caked- on top of the actual noodles. There is so much sichuan and black peppers that when you move the top layer of soup with your spoon, it almost peels back like a bog of spice.
Upon first trying the soup, my first thought was that I was in for one hell of a ride. Obviously the broth is incredibly spicy, but it is also incredibly flavorful and aromatic. You can tell that the chef’s did not just top on spices and peppers just for the sake of being spicy, which is often what restaurants will do in these situations. The broth is made with care and attention is paid to the types of ingredients used, and regardless of how spicy it is, you can’t help but to notice that it is just made really well. The miso-based broth is made from chicken and pork bones, along with various kinds of spices and vegetable soups. The miso is what carries this restaurant’s legacy as they use a proprietary blend and combine it with their soup that is cooked for over ten hours.
When biting into the noodles, your mouth is instantly set on fire, and it literally hurts. The sichuan peppers and star anise numb your mouth, while the other peppers start attacking your taste buds intensely. As a lover of really spicy food, this isn’t an easy challenge by any means, but it is insanely delicious. I know that in a previous review I’ve mentioned Fūunji to have some of the best noodles I’ve tried in Tokyo. Well, I think that Kikanbo tops Fūunji by a mile on this front. The noodles (which are a house mix of three different kinds) are springy in texture, zig-zagged in shape, and perfectly cooked in a way that I have never had before in a bowl of ramen. The chashu is also meticulously cooked, falling apart beautifully in your mouth when biting on it, and literally dissolving into a mouthful of umami and smokiness. The chashu is also the best I’ve ever had to date.
When eating it all together, the taste is best described as an electric, biting feeling at first contact with your tongue, then an attack from the red spices and temperature of the soup. When chewing on it, your mouth physically hurts and your nose runs from the sheer intensity. My advice is to eat it as quickly as possible and to not let the spices linger too long, because then the pain will start to set in and it may be too much for some people to handle.
After reading all this, you probably think I’m crazy for loving it. But trust me when I say that it is genuinely the best bowl of ramen that I have ever had. From the complexity of the broth to the masterful preparation of the noodles, no miso ramen in the States or even in Tokyo matches up to Kikanbo’s in my opinion. With that being said, the devil level is not for everyone, and I will only say to try it at your own risk. But if you’re not in the mood for doing a heinous food challenge, opting for their normal bowls are sure to delight your senses and satisfy your hunger.
Oh, and the best part about the devil level? You get a cool little candy with a devil on it for finishing it.
Kikanbo’s original location (as mentioned in this article) is in Chiyoda City, Tokyo. They have since opened multiple locations across Tokyo, Taiwan, and Hong Kong.
