Tonchinkan (豚珍館)
Eventually on our trip, my girlfriend and I were craving something other than sushi and ramen. As a result, we decided that we wanted to try a katsu place. Looking online, many local residents of Nishi-Shinjuku recommend Tonchinkan as a spot that only locals know about, and a place that they’ve been coming to for years. One local resident even claims that after trying many of the hyped up katsu joints across Tokyo, Tonchinkan stands out as his uncontested favorite.
Intrigued, we decided to try it. While Tonchinkan is located in the main area of Nishi-Shinjuku, it is situated a little bit away from the limelight and tucked in a small backstreet that could easily go unnoticed. Furthermore, it is located on the second floor of the building, and although there is signage outside, most foreigners could still easily miss it walking by.
After finding the entrance and walking up the stairs, the staff greeted us and made us wait on the stairs while they gave us menus to look at. Ordering is done quickly, so make sure to have a general idea of what you want beforehand, and make sure to bring cash as they do not take credit cards. I got the standard pork cutlet, and my girlfriend got the thin-cut pork cutlet.
After ordering our table was quickly prepared and we were seated. Within minutes the waiter came out with our food, freshly-made with mouth watering presentation. The orders also come with a plethora of side dishes including radish miso soup, pickled vegetables to eat with the pork, a large bowl of rice, and a warm cup of tea.
The standard pork cutlet is absolutely massive and I do not mean this as an understatement. For about ¥1,000-1,200 ($7-9 USD; conversion rates may differ over time), it comes with a large slab of fried pork cut into 1” thick slices. Even the “thin-cut” order comes with two cutlets instead of one. Along with the pork you also get a huge heap of cabbage to eat with the katsu.
The cutlets have a satisfying crunch when bitten into. The breading is freshly-fried and does not taste too oily, which is sometimes a problem with lower-quality katsu. The meat is fresh and of the highest quality, and has a succulent juiciness that I’ve not tasted in any katsu dish before. The restaurant also offers two choices of sauce: house original and spicy. Both are smoky and have a deep sesame-like umami flavor, but it is not necessary to eat the katsu with them if you generally don’t like sauces. My personal favorite is the spicy one, which isn’t really spicy at all, but rather a different flavor altogether in my opinion.
The radish miso soup is refreshing and helps out when you need to take a break from the pork. It is light, and those who have not tried this variation before will be pleasantly surprised to taste it. The cabbage has a fresh crunch that allows the pork to be easier on the palate when eaten together. Lastly, the pickled vegetables are a treat to pair with, and I wish that they would give more per order.
We also ended up coming here a second time, and this time we ordered a lighter dish that isn’t so large. This one comes with grilled pork that is thinly-sliced on top of a bed of cabbage and with the usual side dishes. If you are looking for a lighter option, I’d recommend this one instead. The standard katsu cutlet above is great, but is honestly a lot of food for an average meal.
If you don’t eat pork or want something else for a change, Tonchinkan offers other meat options as well.
Overall, Tonchinkan leaves a positive impression on us, and I can see why locals frequent this place so much. It should be noted that in our two times eating here, there was only one other group of foreigners apart from us. While I believe this validates the restaurant’s quality and authenticity to a degree, I understand that it can sound scary for foreigners to approach. But don’t be intimidated, as the staff is extremely friendly and is fluent in English.
To try a true local staple, look no further than Tonchinkan in Nishi-Shinjuku, Tokyo.
